New Chihuahua Puppy Instructions!

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* DIET:

-Very small Chihuahuas - Dry kibble currently being fed is Diamond Pet small Breed Puppy . - Bigger Chihuahuas are Fed the Diamond Pet Adult Formula, Chicken Rice and Vegetable.

This is free feed available 24/7 for the pup as well as fresh water. We recommend the small Breed Adult for later on, you can go to www.diamondpet.com to see their selections of foods, and distributor locations. We feed their NATURALS Line of kibble has no corn, wheat or glutens! We purchase Our Diamond Pet Kibble under the Kirkland Brand at Costco.

* ALL PUPPIES:

Please keep new stimulations to a minimum when your puppy goes home with you for the first week. They are BABIES and must have naps, eat and drink frequently, and process all the new changes in their life. Dehydration and over stimulation during transition can seriously sicken your puppy, and incur unnecessary vet costs. When they are sleeping, they are growing, DO NOT DISTURB THEM IF AT ALL POSSIBLE.

* ALL CHIHUAHUAS:

- Please give your new pup 2-3 small pea sized globs of the Fortical at least 3 times a day for the first two days puppy is new to your home and family. We will administer Fortical to your puppy just before they travel home with you. We provide a new tube of Fortical as part of your gift bag / puppy pack. Many times puppies will be so excited/nervous about all the changes and missing their siblings that they do not take in enough calories. In the Chihuahuas this could be very serious and induce stress related Hypoglycemia. Please give the Fortical whenever you are traveling with your pup until they are completely comfortable traveling.

If you are worried that your puppy/dog will not eat, as a last resort - here are a few human foods to try: Chicken- you can buy a ready to go roasted one at one of your neighborhood grocery stores for $6-$8, or roast one yourself. I have never met a dog that could resist roasted chicken! I also have a recipe for canned chicken and rice, please let me know if you would like it to fix for your doggy. Dairy products- Cottage cheese, yogurt, cheese Human Baby food, scrambled egg, are also great nutrition sources for proteins and easy on the tummy!

* LOOSE STOOL:

1/2 soaked kibble, 1/2 cooked rice, brown or white will help firm stools. Also natural canned pumpkin or Ground raw Pumpkin seeds works great, mixed in with some soaked kibble if they will not eat it straight. Please do not feed canned foods , they are high in sodium and terrible for their teeth. Please examine the puppy's stool regularly, if anything about their stool does not appear normal, have it checked by a vet.

* VACCINATIONS:

Until your puppy has ALL their shots, you are its environmental protection against disease! Here is a simplified example of how Vaccinations work:

I have a litter of 10 puppies. I give the first vaccination at 7 weeks, only 5 puppies immune systems are developed enough to make antibodies to those diseases. I give the second vaccination at 10 weeks, another two pups develop antibodies. I give the third vaccination and the remaining two pups HOPEFULLY have developed antibodies. I give a fourth just to make sure, SINCE I HAVE NO WAY OF KNOWING WHO HAS DEVELOPED ANTIBODIES!! The ONLY sure way to know if your pup has developed antibodies to any disease is to have a " Blood Titer test "done at your veterinarians office . This can be expensive but worth it if you really want to know. Please do not space your puppies Vaccination closer than 3 weeks apart.

When Completing Vaccinations:

Arrange for Vaccinations to be given in the morning, on a day when your schedule will allow for low to no environmental stimulation, and you can observe your puppy. If there is a negative reaction to the Vaccination and it is serious, you will then have plenty of time to get your puppy to the Vet during business hours!

**We vaccinate with a with a Modified Live Virus Type 5 way. Also known as a Canine 1-DAPPv, which stands for- Canine Distemper(Distemper)- Adendovirus type 1 (Hepatitis ) - Adendovirus type 2 (Respiratory Disease)- Parainfuenza(canine influenza)- Parvovirus (Parvo)Vaccine. We have our puppies on a vaccination schedule 3 weeks apart, starting at 7 weeks of age, a total of 4 vaccinations by the time the puppy reaches 16 weeks old.

DO NOT ALLOW YOUR VET TO GIVE VACCINATIONS CONTAINING LEPTOSPOROSIS (LEPTO) UNLESS YOU LIVE IN OR WILL BE TRAVELING TO AN AREA THAT HAS HIGH RISK FOR THIS DISEASE!! THE LEPTO VACCINATION HAS A HIGH RISK OF LETHAL REACTION IN CANINES!

*Rabies Vaccinations are a required vaccination your puppy will need at or around 16 weeks of age, and is required to obtain your county dog license. A Veterinarian ONLY can give this vaccination for it to be recognized by the county. Your Vet will issue you a Vaccination certificate, and may also be able to complete your dog license on behalf of the county.

* PHYSICAL / ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION INSTRUCTIONS:

*NO dog Parks, *NO rest areas on highways, *ALWAYS take your puppy in a carrier to the vets office, *DO NOT set the carrier on the floor, *DO NOT allow other animals in the office to have contact with your puppy. *DO NOT allow other clients to touch your puppy, THEY ARE THERE BECAUSE THEY HAVE MORE THAN LIKELY BROUGHT A SICK ANIMAL IN. If they weigh scale is a rubber matted one and does not get sanitized after each animal is weighed, please ask your technician to place a sanitized towel on the scale and re-zero it before you place your puppy on it. I am very strict about this, if they will not do it, find another vet. They are providing a service to you and should cater to your wishes, mine do!

* PLEASE!!

Also keep sanitizer in the form of hand wash (for hands and forearms) and Lysol spray (for shoes and feet) for yourself and visitors, and use it. You and your visitors should be fully sanitized before having contact with your new puppy. Shoes can be removed and placed out of reach of the puppy, most communicable diseases will be carried in on the bottom of shoes. Parvo, distemper etc.. can be present in environments for months to years and once exposed, the incubation can range from 3 days to 14 days.

* PHYSICAL ACTIVITIES:

Please DO NOT leave your puppy unattended on any surface higher than the top of their head. (even if they are sleeping and you don't want to wake them!) It may not be a tremendous distance but, the Chihuahuas have delicate limbs and a MOLERA ( soft spot) and can injury themselves severely. They can be very spontaneous and can leap from your arms in split seconds. REPEATED jarring and shocks to their front legs will more than likely cause them to be deformed in their growth and develop arthritic conditions as an adult! So, please do not allow them to jump down from any surface if they do not have the muscle to jump up! As a baby without muscle, their joints bear the load of impact.

*** WE INCLUDE A JINGLE BELL FOR YOUR PUPPYS COLLAR IN YOUR PUPPY PACK!***

This will keep you and visitors to your home from stepping on them and shutting them in doors and being injured/killed, escaping outside, also it makes it easier to find them when you can't see them!

The bell is also a great aid in potty training so you know when they are roaming away from you when they need to eliminate.

* PLEASE MAKE A "SAFE PLACE" FOR YOUR PUPPY!!!

I cannot stress enough how important it is to have a safe place for your puppy to be when you are not supervising 100%! Many Vet's bills and heartaches can be avoided, as well as keeping you on track with your potty training! Step by step instructions are on our website!!

We have Ex-Pens for sale at wholesale price as well as litter boxes and re-usable, washable pee pee pads.

* SPAY AND NEUTER

*It is our opinion that Males and Females are more trainable when it comes to housetraining and obedience, and make better pets.

Deciding whether to have your Dog sterilized is one of the first important decisions that you will make as a pet owner. As with all decisions, there are pros and cons that need to be weighed before you decide on whether or not to spay or neuter your puppy.

The Advantages of Sterilization

Perhaps the greatest benefit of spaying and neutering is the decrease in the population of unwanted puppies.

Accidental pregnancies and irresponsible breeding are real problems that result in unwanted puppies. These puppies often end up in animal shelters where the lucky ones are adopted and the unlucky ones are euthanized. Both the emotional and financial costs of this problem are staggering and could be avoided with responsible sterilization .Further, it is commonly believed that spaying and neutering can improve the health and attitude of Dogs. Spaying and neutering reduces your Dog's hormone levels and lead to a significantly lower incidence of certain types of cancers. Sterilization can reduce the dog's urge to roam around looking for a mate. Dogs without the urge to roam are easier to control outside and safer because they have a lower risk of getting lost, stolen or hit by a car. Sterilized dogs are often less aggressive which helps to keep them safe and out of trouble.

The Disadvantages of Sterilization

While there is much evidence regarding the medical advantages of sterilization, there are some disadvantages that you should be aware of prior to taking your Dog in for surgery.

First, there is the risk of infection and complications that come with all types of anesthesia and surgical procedures. Second, there is some evidence that the incidence of certain types of cancer rise even while others decrease. Of course, the biggest disadvantage of sterilization is that it often occurs while your dog is a puppy and you lose your option to breed the dog later in life.

If your Dog comes from a fine pedigree or you wish to see her deliver puppies and you are prepared for the large amount of work and responsibility that comes with that, then spaying or neutering may not be the best option for you. Many veterinarians and non-profit agencies feel so strongly that dogs should be spayed or neutered that they often help pay the bill if an owner cannot afford the surgery. So, financial factors should not play into your decision regarding sterilization. Sterilization is a personal decision that each Dog owner has to make. It is important to know that you are not depriving your pet of anything and are working toward making his or her life much healthier.

Further, by spaying or neutering your dog you are doing your part to help alleviate the overpopulation problem among dogs. It means that for every puppy that you could have placed in a home another puppy may be adopted rather than euthanized. So, unless you plan to breed your dog, it is important to carefully consider the costs and benefits of sterilization and to make your decision accordingly.

We recommend spay/neuter between the age of 4 - 6 months for Boys, 6 - 8 Months for Girls.

When Spaying and Neutering your dog is a GREAT time to have these things done as well:

* Rabies * Microchip * Retained Baby Teeth Pulled

* Umbilical Hernias repaired * Stenotic Nares surgery ( open the Nostrils )

We have a list of spay/neuter clinics in Oregon and Washington to assist you if needed. If your regular vet participates in the ASPCA Spay/neuter coupon program every year you may be able to use your vet AND get 1/2 off!